Onward - Camino Days Three, Four, and Five

Friday, September 23rd, Day

Three, Mino to Betanzos to Cos – a long walk for us of nearly 12 miles. The walk from Mino to Betanzos was quite delightful with well-marked trails, lovely woods, sunny early morning skies, and running streams.

Drinking water was present in several fuentes (fountains) along the way that were clearly marked as potable – and we drank freely of the clear cold wonderful tasting liquid.
















As we left Betanzos we bought some jamón york y queso bocodillas (ham and cheese sandwiches) for the remainder of the day’s journey. The initial path, as at Pontedeume, was uphill and demanding. It was, however, a beautiful walk.

Whoever engineered these routes – whether they literally adhere to the medieval routes or not – has endeavored to keep peregrinos off the roadways and on scenic dirt paths through forests and farms and along brooks. Frequently we could hear the sound of cars on a motorway – but there was no car in sight. And, as you can see above, we had a fellow peregrino to direct us!

Instead we saw farming, vegetable gardens, or reforesting – from logs on the ground to five saplings to small plantings. Nice to see. It was a good camino.








We had our day of rest. But, unfortunately, we began to have stomach issues that continued for a week. Stomach pains and diarrhea were the symptoms, and walking was clearly affected. Although we’re not sure, we think water from those wonderful drinking fountains we’ve shown photos of was the problem.

Day Four. Our goal was Hospital de Bruma/Meson do Vento at the top of the tallest mountain – ok, not a mountain in the California sense of mountains, but more in the Maine sense (don’t be offended, our Maine friends) – between Ferrol and Santiago de Compostela. Everyone we had talked to about the Camino Ingles had told us about this climb, and they were correct. The countryside is beautiful with many small villages, small farms with animals, and rolling hills, so we had something to look at as the route rose 1,000' in less than two miles. It was quite a hike!

Yet, the previous days’ walking had prepared us . . . we huffed and puffed but didn’t stop as often as we did during Day Two.

We found an apple on the ground -- delicious!

We stopped at a cafe for bebidas (drinks) and they gave us tapas of beans with bacon. Yummy -- and our new friend thought so too.

We met another friend who seemed happy to share his space with many flies.


Well, the trail finally did flatten out, although periodically there was yet another very steep incline.

Bruma turned out to be a few houses including an albergue (pilgrim’s house along the trail where people can rest, take a shower, eat, talk with other pilgrims, and sleep. If you were a really serious pilgrim, this would be the place for you.) In fact, we walked through the village of Bruma and didn’t even realize that we’d been there/done that – so of course we were a little off the camino for a short time again.

It was only a small delay on the way to our final destination, Meson do Vento, where we rested at the bar pictured above. Meson do Vento is a small town at the top of the mountain, a stopping point, but not much more than that. But we were there, happy and relieved. We were apprehensive to begin the day and exhausted at the end, still suffering from the touristas. We'd done it, but could we do the next?

Our plan had called for us to walk every other day, so we were supposed to set out again on Tuesday, but we decided we needed another day of rest to recuperate. Then Wednesday it rained -- manna from heaven. Of course, we couldn't possibly walk that day.

Thursday, September 29th arrived. OK, so we only had two days left before leaving for Barcelona, and two days of hikes remaining. Not our plan. But, on the plus side, we were feeling better. Time to hike again!

After the steep ascents of the previous days, Day Five was pretty much downhill -- literally, not figuratively -- through farmland and forests, along streams.

We have not found many peregrinos on the camino -- in fact, until today, we met three walkers the Day one and one biker on Day Four! Today, there were a few more on the trail but, compared to the Camino Frances where there were always people in front and in back, this camino had a different sense. Much more alone -- more peaceful...different.

There was the occasional camino-side cafe to stop out for a rest and a bebida.

We continue to be intrigued by the waymarks and how creative they are -- some more than others, such as the one here with the arrow drawn in rocks on the ground.

We ended the day 16 kilometers from Santiago de Compostela in the decidedly unglamorous suburb of Siguiero, but that didn't matter at all. We were feeling stronger and more confident.




Tomorrow, Friday, September 30th -- our last day -- Santiago de Compostela or bust -- here we come!